Posts Tagged ‘Blue Mosque’

The Blue Mosque: Etiquette & Communication

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

This post is part 3 of 17 of my trip to Istanbul. The series intends to give more than just a I-saw-this-and-did-that review. It aims to share the voice inside my head as I explore a world I’ve only read in books.

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The Blue Mosque sits directly across from the Hagia Sophia on the Hippodrome, also known as the Sultanahmet Square. It’s hard to say which is more impressive. They both rival in beauty. With six towering minarets, The Blue Mosque dominates the Istanbul skyline.

The Blue Mosque is an active mosque; therefore it is not open to visitors at all times. Doors open at 9am but is closed 5 times throughout the day for prayers. It’s also closed midday on Fridays as this is the mandatory prayer of the week. Most mosques in Istanbul close one hour before sun down.

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The main entrance into The Blue Mosque is reserved only worshipers.  All other visitors are required to use the north entrance. Before you can get a glimpse of the blue tiles that gives The Blue Mosque its name, there are a few rules to follow:

Women must:

  • cover their heads with a scarf
  • wear clothes that cover their shoulders
  • wear a long skirt or dress to cover their legs

Men must

  • wear long pants to cover their legs. (Shorts are not acceptable.)

Men and women must

  • take off their shoes and place them in a plastic bag

Plastic bags are provided and head scarves are given to those who have none. As you enter The Blue mosque, be prepared to get a nice big whiff of feet. Don’t cringe. It doesn’t smell as bad as squat toilets in China. What did you expect? Everyone has their shoes off.

But if you think about it, it’s not the locals who stink up the place. It’s actually the tourists and visitors. Worshipers wash their hands, face, neck and feet in the ablution before entering the mosque for prayers. The rest of us – tourists and visitors – stroll in after a long sweaty day of wandering through the city. Not many of us bother to wash ourselves. Of course the mosque is going to smell like feet.

Entering the mosque wasn’t a problem for JC and I. We did our homework and we were prepared with the right ensemble. Getting out of the mosque was another story. We walked back to the north entrance and realized the door was locked from the outside. Perturbed, we headed back to the mosque but a gate had already been set up.

From behind, a young boy in an olive uniform called for JC. He was with two tourists – a girl and a guy. Words were exchanged along with hand gestures and confused looks. The boy in the uniform spoke Turkish. JC spoke English. The girl spoke Spanish. She tried translate the little bit of Turkish she knew.

All of the sudden, JC hiked up his jeans and maneuvered himself to climb over the wall. I shouted,

“What are you doing?!”
“Getting out.”
“That’s not how you get out.”
“That’s what he said.”
“He doesn’t work here.”
“Yes, he does.”
“No, he doesn’t”
“What are you talking about? He just told me.”
“The workers here are in blue.”
“Oh, what the hell was he telling me then?”
“He was asking you how to get in.”

The entire time JC was trying to ask the boy how to get out, the boy was trying to ask him how to get in. Lost in translation? The incident gave birth to a new joke. How do you ask a Chinaman how to get into a mosque? You don’t.

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Merhaba Istanbul!

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

This post is part 1 of 17 of my trip to Istanbul. The series intends to give more than just a I-saw-this-and-did-that review. It aims to share the voice inside my head as I explore a world I’ve only read in books.

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia

I’m a nerd. I like math and I like to plan. Excel is my best friend. I can’t live without my planner. When it comes to traveling, I get excited at the thought of creating a new spreadsheet. Budgeting is my favorite part. How low can I go?

This 8-day trip to Istanbul was only $1270 – $640 for round-trip tickets and $630 for everything else. That means I spent less than $80 a day. That includes accommodation, food, entrance fees, transportation and souvenirs. I’d say it’s a pretty good deal for independent traveling.

JC and I landed in Istanbul around 10AM with no place to stay. We took public transportation from Ataturk International Airport to Sultanahmet in search of a home and found the Hali Hotel. Here’s an excerpt of the hotel review I wrote for Lay Your Head Here:

Imagine a panoramic view of the Golden Horn, The Haghia Sophia, The Bosporus River, The Blue Mosque and the Sea of Marmara. That’s the view from the terrace of the Hali Hotel in Istanbul where I had my complimentary breakfast every morning.

If you’re visiting Istanbul for the first time, staying in Sultanahmet is ideal. The Hali Hotel is located within minutes from The Grand Bazaar, The Topkapi Palace, The Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia, Suleymaniye’s Mosque, Basilica Cistern and other historical and cultural places.

You can find the rest of the review at Lay Your Head Here.

The Hali Hotel is conveniently located in the middle of everything. The Putin-looking manager at the front desk was a little cold at first but he warmed up to us throughout the week. Hip-Hop Hasan gave us a great tour of the hotel. He was a jovial guy who led a double a life – a bell boy by day and a hip hop break dancer by night.

JC told the Putin-looking manager that Hip-Hop Hasan deserved a raise for giving us an exceptional tour. Hip-Hop Hasan’s Kool-Aid smile grew even bigger but the Putin-looking manager gave JC the stare of death that said, “Don’t give the boy any ideas or his raise will be coming out of your pocket.”

For 55 Euros a night, we settled into our temporary home for the week. After a power nap, we went to brunch around 3PM and ordered a cup of Turkish coffee. I desperately needed that shot of caffeine before setting out on foot. We walked by the Hagia Sophia and The Blue Mosque and strolled through the Hippodrome, which was packed with tourists and locals.

It was the middle of Ramadan and many of the locals gathered at the Hippodrome to await their first meal of the day. JC and I went back to the Hali Hotel and sat on the terrace for over two hours watching the sky change colors as the sun set. It was the only night we had the terrace to ourselves. We had a feeling that this would never never happen again. People usually realize it hindsight but when something is too good to be true, it probably is.

We stayed up there for as long as we could – alone in the dark with nothing but the lights below and the stars above. I had a front row seat of the Hagia Sofia to my left and The Blue Mosque to my right – both lit up with lights. When the wind blew, I felt as if I was floating. I was high just knowing that for the next 8 days, I did not have to be cooped up in four walls and spend over 10 hours of the day typing away in front of a computer screen.

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