Posts Tagged ‘Forbidden City’

Unmet Expectations At The Topkapi Palace

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

This post is part 15 of 17 of my trip to Istanbul. The series intends to give more than just a I-saw-this-and-did-that review. It aims to share the voice inside my head as I explore a world I’ve only read in books.

Gate of Salutation

Gate of Salutation

The more I travel, the more I realize that the less explored sites often take my breath away more so than popular touristy sites that everyone says it’s a “must-do.” Maybe it’s because I have higher expectation for sites that everyone talks about and less expectations for sites that aren’t mentioned in every single guide book and travel blog.

When I come across something totally unexpected, it leaves an impression and makes me wonder why it doesn’t receive the same amount of publicity as other popular sites. Maybe the impressiveness of the sites becomes diminished once it’s a major tourist attraction. To me it’s no longer as authentic as something that’s hidden in a back alley. It becomes another form of western commercialism charging additional fees for this and that and higher fees for more experiences.

However, not all popular tourist destinations fail to live up to it’s hype. For example, everything I’ve ever read about the Forbidden City was nothing but praises of beauty and extravagance. Even with high expectations, it still blew me away. I had the same kind of expectation for the Topkapi Palace but it wasn’t what I had hoped for. Maybe my expectations were too high.

It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the former primary residence for the Ottoman Sultans before they moved to the more westernized Dolmabahce Palace on the Bosporus River. The Topkapi Palace became museum for it’s fine example of Ottoman architecture and it’s collection of porcelains, weapons, armors, calligraphic manuscripts and it’s most prized treasure and jewelry.

JC and I bought our entrance tickets and proceeded through the Imperial Gate. It was covered in marble and written with gilded inscriptions over a high arch. The gate led to the first courtyard followed by the Gate of Salutation, which was also richly inscribed with calligraphy.

Imperial Council

Imperial Council

The first building that instantly caught my eye was the Imperial Council. You can’t miss it with it’s naturally illuminating gilded exterior. The porch and floor was made entirely of marble. The white and green wooden ceiling was decorated in gold.  The exterior walls and entrance was plastered in gilded gold. No other building in the Topkapi Palace that I had seen matched up to the lavishness of this one.

JC and I wandered in and out of the courtyards just to get a feel of the palace. It was grand in size but it didn’t match up to my expectations. Like any other major tourist attractions, swarms of tour groups and visitors filled up the palace as the day progressed. Lines were getting excessively long and visitors were getting impatient.

The Imperial Treasury was one of the main sites of the palace. The line to enter snaked around and around and it moved at a snail’s pace. When we finally got in the air was humid and musky. Swarms of people crowded around the glass windows to get a glimpse of the glistening jewels. I’m not a big fan of things that sparkle but curiousity made me wonder what everyone was drooling over.

View From Topkapi Palace

View From Topkapi Palace

The one thing that did make me go ga-ga was the view from the balcony. Of course, the photo doesn’t do it justice but I had an amazing front row seat since every one was too busy being enchanged my jewels. I got to enjoyed another one of Mother Nature’s masterpiece.

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The Forbidden City & The Hidden Hostel

Thursday, September 10th, 2009
Photo by Jabari Bell

Photo by Jabari Bell

The Forbidden City is one of Beijing’s crown jewels – along with The Great Wall, The Summer Palace and The Temple of Heaven. The ancient capital is a vibrant city rich in history. There are plenty of gems scattered everywhere. If I had the time, I would have explored every single one of them. But I didn’t. I only had 5 days so I had to make the best of it.

It was hard to cram everything into 5 days. It was even harder deciding what to cram in. The Forbidden City was a must. Why? Because it just is. It would be a shame to fly half way around the world and not step foot into those gated walls. History is preserved for the present to see. But whether or not it will be there tomorrow is another story. I somewhat regret not taking a trip out to Kashgar to visit the Old City. The Chinese government has decided to destroy 85% of the town. It’s reason? To protect an ancient city, China moves to raze it. But I digress.

Back to The Forbidden City. Rain or shine swarms of locals and tourists spend countless hours losing themselves inside these gated walls. A large portion of it has been retouched in preparation for the Olympics. Now that the event is over, I would imagine it to be pristine. Words are vague when it comes to describing The Forbidden City. I’m not going to attempt in fear of boring you to death. You’ll just have to wait for photos every Friday. I’m sure you’d prefer that anyway.

But if you are visiting Beijing and are looking for a more authentic stay, I highly recommend The Far East International Youth Hostel. I wrote a review of it at Layyourheadhere.com, a new site where travel accommodation are selected for travelers by travelers. Here’s an excerpt:

Hutongs in Beijing are slowly becoming a thing of the past. But there are nooks and crannies that shed light to the old school way of life. If you’re looking for insights on the lives of the locals, you will find it in the daily interactions of the people living in hutongs.

The Far East International Youth Hostel is the perfect place to integrate into the local customs and lifestyle. Their accommodations are geared towards budget travelers. To score additional discounts, you can…

Click here to read the full review.

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The Temple of Heaven

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009
Photo by Jabari Bell

The Circular Alter - Photo by Jabari Bell

The Temple of Heaven…I think the photo says it all, don’t you? It is a very heavenly sight. It’s one of the largest complexes in China. Chinese emperors considered themselves the sons of the Heaven. As a sign of respect, they built the Temple of Heaven even larger than The Forbidden City. Many visitors crowd in and around the Circular Altar, where sacrifices were made every Winter Solstice in hopes of bringing good fortune and prosperity for the coming year.

While I was there, I got a kick out of watching the people near the Three Echo Stones. It is located outside the Imperial Vault of Heaven. I think this was the only time I saw Chinese people line up properly. They were simultaneously shouting at the wall and shoving their ears against it. It is said that if you speak facing the first stone on the Vault, you can hear one echo. If you speak facing the second stone, you can hear two echos; third stone, three echos and so on. The frigid cold didn’t seem to deter any visitors away. There were swarms of them everywhere. And a large crowd of tourists usually means that a horde of taxi drivers were waiting nearby.

When we left the Temple of Heaven, they were all parked outside the drop off area. We hopped into a black Benz. I watched as the taxi driver snatched the removable sign off the roof of his car. His furtive glances back and forth gave it all away. He was running an illegal taxi business. He toss the sign in the car and we drove off. At first glance, it is a little suspect and it would be something to be wary about. But JC is one of those people who’s always curious and always full of questions. Unlike others, he actually takes the time to have an actual conversation with locals wherever he goes.

As it turns out, the taxi driver wasn’t a bad guy. He admitted to running an illegal taxi business. He even told us he wasn’t a local from Beijing. He came to Beijing in search of better work opportunities but it didn’t turn out as easy as he had hoped for. As a result, he drives around in a Benz disguised as a taxi. He risks paying fines with money he doesn’t have and serving jail time when his family depends on him. But this was a stable way for him to provide for them. By law, it is illegal. By law, this makes him a criminal. But is he really?

For many tourists, they only see the facade of what life is like in China. That’s why there is such a big difference between being a tourist and being a traveler. Tourists only sees what’s on the surface. Travelers seek to discover what’s underneath.

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